Hakone, nestled amidst the picturesque Hakone Pass, isn’t a single city but a collection of charming towns. Its volcanic terrain makes it a prime destination for hot spring enthusiasts, ranking among Japan’s top five for such experiences. This hakone itinerary will give you all the info you need to enjoy 1 or 2 days in this amazing location.
Most visitors arrive at Hakone-Yumoto, the area’s main town. Gora, another popular choice, offers numerous hot springs and a central location. But don’t limit yourself to these two. Hakone is dotted with traditional Japanese inns, or ryokans, each offering a unique hot spring experience and tranquil atmosphere.
The area’s well-connected public transportation system makes it easy to explore the various towns, inns, and attractions. Whether you’re seeking a day trip or a weekend getaway, Hakone is conveniently located just one to two hours from Tokyo by bus or train.
What is the Hakone Free Pass
The Hakone Freepass is a convenient transportation pass that covers the cost of travel to and around Hakone. It includes trains, buses, boat rides, and ropeways, making it a great option for exploring the area.
Where to buy Hakone Free Pass
You can purchase the Hakone Freepass:
- at the Odakyu Sightseeing Service Center in Shinjuku or Odawara train stations.
- online through a travel agency and exchange the voucher for the real ticket at Shinjuku station.
The Hakone Freepass is similar to a Japan Rail Pass, but it’s specifically designed for travel within Hakone. Simply flash your pass when boarding trains or buses. In addition to transportation, the pass often provides discounts at restaurants and tourist attractions.
It’s important to note that the JR Pass only covers train travel from Tokyo to Odawara. If you plan to travel within Hakone, you’ll need to purchase a separate Hakone Freepass.
Other Hakone Pass
Fuji Hakone Pass
Is another option for travelers exploring Hakone and Mount Fuji. This pass allows you to travel between Tokyo and these areas, as well as within the Mount Fuji and Hakone regions. The pass is valid for three days, and the price is the same regardless of your starting point.
You can purchase the Fuji Hakone Pass at the Odakyu Sightseeing Service Center in Shinjuku Station, Otsuki Station, or Kawaguchiko Station. Or via Klook for faster and preventive purchase.
Hakone Kamakura Pass
It covers transportation in Hakone and on the Enoden Train Line in Kamakura and Enoshima. This pass is valid for three days.
Here are the prices for the Hakone Kamakura Pass as of October 2024:
- Adult – ¥7,520 (US$49 | £38.50 | €46)
- Child – ¥1,480 (US$9.85 | £7.59 | €9)
You can purchase the Hakone Kamakura Pass at the Odakyu Sightseeing Service Center in Shinjuku Station or online via Klook.
How to get to Hakone
Traveling to Hakone from Tokyo can be a bit confusing, as there are three different train routes available. Your Japan Rail Pass may not cover the entire journey. However, following this itinerary and seeking assistance from the friendly staff at the Hakone tourism office will make the process smooth.
Taking the bus to Hakone
While there’s a direct bus from Shinjuku Station to Hakone, it might not be the most convenient option for everyone. The bus typically terminates at Togendai, a location on Lake Ashi. If your final destination is Hakone-Yumoto, you’ll need to transfer to the T or S bus line at either Sengoku or Senkyoro-mae bus stops.
For the most up-to-date schedules and route information, I recommend checking the Willer Website.
Option #1: JR Train + Hakone-Tozan Train
If you have a Japan Rail Pass, taking the JR train to Odawara and then the Hakone-Tozan train is the most efficient way to reach Hakone. This is especially true if you’re traveling from cities like Kyoto or Osaka.
Here’s a breakdown of the steps:
- Board a JR Train to Odawara: Use your Japan Rail Pass to travel to Odawara Station. The journey time varies depending on your starting point.
- Purchase or Validate the Hakone Freepass: At Odawara Station, visit the Odakyu Sightseeing Service Center to buy or validate your Hakone Freepass. This pass covers transportation within Hakone, including the Hakone-Tozan train and buses.
- Take the Hakone-Tozan Train: Board the Hakone-Tozan train to your desired destination within Hakone. The train departs every 15 minutes and takes approximately 15 minutes to reach Hakone-Yumoto Station.
Step 2: Obtain Your Hakone Freepass
At Odawara Station, locate the Odakyu Sightseeing Service Center. Here, you can purchase a Hakone Freepass or validate your online purchase. The center is easily recognizable by its “Tickets for Hakone” sign. The staff are known for their helpfulness and friendliness.
Don’t forget: Grab a free Hakone Bus Trip Map and Timetable. It’s a valuable resource for navigating the area efficiently.
Alternative: If you’re starting your journey in Tokyo, you can buy a Hakone Freepass at the Odakyu Sightseeing Service Center at Shinjuku Station. Just specify that you only need coverage from Odawara to Hakone.
Step 3: Travel to Hakone
From Odawara Station, take the Hakone Tozan train to your desired destination within Hakone. This train ride is included in your Hakone Freepass. The journey to Hakone-Yumoto Station typically takes 15 minutes, and trains depart every 15 minutes.
Important: Choose the nearest station to your hotel. Popular options include Hakone-Yumoto, Gora, and others. Consult your hotel or the Odakyu Sightseeing Service Center for recommendations.
Option #2: Romance Car
For a luxurious and scenic journey, consider the Romance Car. This express train offers a comfortable and direct route from Tokyo Shinjuku Station to Hakone.
Purchase: You can buy Romance Car tickets at the Odakyu Sightseeing Service Center in Shinjuku Station or online.
Details: The journey takes approximately 80 minutes and requires a separate ticket and limited express surcharge. The total cost from Shinjuku Station as of December 26, 2023, is ¥2,470.
More Information: Visit the Odakyu website for additional details.
Option #3: Odakyu Train Line + Hakone-Tozan Train Line
If you want to save money or don’t have a Japan Rail Pass but have a Hakone Freepass, this option is ideal.
Step 1: Purchase the Hakone Freepass
Before departing Tokyo, buy a Hakone Freepass. This pass covers the entire train journey from Tokyo to Hakone. You can purchase it at the Odakyu Sightseeing Service Center in Shinjuku Station or online through platforms like Klook.
Step 2: Take the Odakyu Line
Board the Odakyu Train Line from Shinjuku Station. This line is not covered by the Japan Rail Pass but is included in the Hakone Freepass. The journey takes about 100 minutes.
Step 3: Transfer to the Hakone-Tozan Train Line
In Odawara, transfer to the Hakone-Tozan Train Line. This line is covered by your Hakone Freepass. It takes approximately 15 minutes to reach Hakone-Yumoto Station.
Note: Choose the nearest station to your hotel. Popular options include Hakone-Yumoto, Gora, and others.
Without the Hakone Freepass:
- Odakyu Line: ¥900
- Hakone-Tozan Train Line: ¥320
When to Visit Hakone
Weekdays are generally a better choice for avoiding crowds and enjoying lower prices. While I experienced manageable crowds even during peak season in August, the difference between weekdays and weekends was noticeable. Accommodations were significantly more expensive on weekends.
Best Season:
- Summer: Offers lower accommodation prices compared to other seasons.
- Winter: Ideal for viewing Mount Fuji.
- Fall: Renowned for its stunning autumn foliage.
The best time to visit Hakone depends on your priorities. If you want to save money and avoid crowds, consider visiting on a weekday. For breathtaking scenery, choose either winter for Mount Fuji or fall for the colorful foliage.
BOX BEST SEASON TO VISIT JAPAN
How Long Should You Stay in Hakone?
Hakone offers a delightful blend of relaxation and exploration. Aim for at least two days and two nights to fully experience its charm. This allows you to unwind in a soothing onsen (hot spring bath), visit historical sites, and immerse yourself in art at the Hakone Open Air Museum.
If you’re short on time, a two-day and one-night trip is still manageable. This was the approach I have taken during my first visit.
Have more time to spare? Extend your stay to three days. This allows you to indulge in more challenging hikes, enjoy extended soaks in the calming onsens.
Accommodation Options: Hakone offers unique accommodation options to suit your budget and desires. Be sure to visit my guide to where to stay and best ryokan in Hakone
Hakone’s Efficient Transportation System
Hakone’s public transportation system is a model of efficiency and user-friendliness, a stark contrast to what many of us are accustomed to in the United States. It’s so well-designed that navigating Hakone becomes a breeze.
Your Hakone Freepass is a valuable asset, covering the cost of trains, buses, a cable car, a ropeway, and even a boat ride on Lake Ashi.
Navigating Hakone by Bus:
A must-have for any Hakone visitor is the Hakone Bus Trip Map. Available at the Odakyu Sightseeing Service Center, this easy-to-use map provides detailed information on bus routes and stops.
Hakone boasts an impressive 14 bus routes, each identified by a letter (T, TP, H, L, G, etc.). Keep an eye out for these letters at bus stops and on the front of buses.
Starting Your Journey:
If you’re departing from Hakone-Yumoto Train Station, simply cross the street using the pedestrian flyover and turn left. You’ll find the Hakone Tozan Bus Information office.
Locate the bus stop corresponding to your desired route. During peak times, you might even find helpful bus employees guiding tourists to the correct stops.
For comprehensive information on bus routes and schedules, visit the Hakone Tozan Bus website.
Traveling by Train:
The Hakone Tozan Railway is the same train line you used to arrive from Odawara. It will take you directly to Gora Station. From there, you can board the cable car that leads to the ropeway to Owakudani and eventually the scenic Lake Ashi.
Hakone Day 1 Itinerary: A Cultural Immersion
Planning Your Arrival:
To maximize your first day in Hakone, aim to arrive by noon or 1:00 PM. This is feasible if you’re traveling from cities like Kyoto, Osaka, Nagoya, or Tokyo.
Step 1: Drop Off Luggage:
Upon arrival, conveniently store your luggage at the luggage storage facility at Hakone-Yumoto train station. For a fee, you can also have your luggage delivered directly to your hotel. If time permits, you might be able to drop off your luggage at your accommodation.
However, keep in mind that ryokans (traditional Japanese inns) may have specific check-in times and may not appreciate early arrivals.
Step 2: Immerse Yourself in Art: Hakone Open Air Museum
Start your Hakone adventure at the renowned Hakone Open Air Museum. To fully appreciate this captivating space, arrive early and plan to spend around three hours exploring its diverse exhibits and soaking your feet in the relaxing foot bath and cafe.
Even if you’re not a museum enthusiast, this outdoor museum (with some indoor exhibits) is a must-visit. Nestled amidst the picturesque forested mountains of Hakone, it’s a haven for art lovers, featuring works by both Japanese and international artists.
Getting There:
- Train: Take the Hakone-Tozan train to Chokoku-no-mori station. A short walk will lead you to the museum.
- Bus: Get off at the Ninotaira-iriguchi stop. From there, it’s a short walk to the museum.
Must-See Exhibits:
- Picasso Exhibit: A dedicated building showcases Picasso’s works, including paintings, ceramics, and photographs.
- Symphonic Sculpture: Step inside this unique sculpture and ascend a winding staircase to a tower offering breathtaking views of the entire park.
- Miss Black Power Sculpture: Another standout exhibit that’s sure to leave an impression.
Step 3: Savor a Traditional Japanese Dinner:
Return to your accommodation for a delightful multi-course Japanese dinner. If you’re staying at a ryokan, this culinary experience is likely included in your room rate. Even if it’s a bit pricey, indulging in a traditional Japanese meal is a must-do during your trip.
Important Note: Ryokans often have strict check-in times, so aim to arrive before 5:00 PM. Additionally, dinner is usually served at a fixed time, so plan accordingly. Consider taking a pre-dinner dip in an onsen to relax before your meal.
Step 4: Unwind in a Relaxing Onsen:
Before or after dinner (or even both), immerse yourself in the therapeutic waters of a Japanese onsen (hot spring). Hakone is renowned as one of Japan’s top hot spring destinations, offering unparalleled relaxation and rejuvenation.
Onsen Options:
- Ryokan Onsens: Most ryokans have their own onsen facilities.
- Public Onsens: If your accommodation doesn’t have an onsen, consider visiting one of these public options:
- Tenzan: Known for its outdoor baths and delicious cuisine.
- Ikkyu: Owned by the same people who run Tenzan Onsen.
- Hakone Yuryo: A traditional countryside resort with both public and private onsen baths and a restaurant serving irori cuisine.
- Hakone Kowakien Yunessun: Offers unique specialty baths like sake, green tea, coffee, and wine baths, along with water slides and traditional onsens.
Remember to check specific opening hours, admission fees, and any tattoo restrictions for each onsen.
Hakone Day 2: A Nature-Packed Adventure
Embarking on Nature’s Wonders:
Day 2 offers a thrilling adventure filled with natural beauty, history, and breathtaking vistas. With a bit of luck, you might even catch a glimpse of Mount Fuji!
Step 1: Ascending to Owakudani:
Begin your day by taking the cable car from Gora Station to Sounzan. From there, board the ropeway to Owakudani. Both the cable car and ropeway rides are included in your Hakone Freepass.
Step 2: Exploring the Great Boiling Valley:
At the summit of the ropeway, you’ll find yourself in Owakudani, the Great Boiling Valley. While the weather might obscure the view of Mount Fuji, the valley itself is a captivating sight.
A Volcanic Marvel:
Owakudani is an active volcano, and you’ll immediately notice the distinct smell of sulfur. Witness the fascinating steam rising from vents in the earth, a testament to the volcano’s power. The last eruption occurred in 2019.
A Taste of Adventure:
Before departing Owakudani, don’t miss the opportunity to try the famous black eggs. These eggs, boiled in a hot spring, are said to add seven years to your life (though scientific evidence is lacking). They taste similar to regular eggs but offer a unique local experience.
Step 3: Descending to Lake Ashi:
Take the ropeway down to Togendai, located on the shore of Lake Ashi.
Step 4: A Pirate Ship Cruise:
From Togendai, embark on a scenic pirate ship cruise across Lake Ashi to Hakone-machi-ko. This cruise is included in your Hakone Freepass.
Choosing a Port:
There are two ports on Lake Ashi: Hakone-machi-ko and Motohakone-ko. For the next stop on your itinerary, Hakone Checkpoint, Hakone-machi-ko is the closer option.
Spotting Mount Fuji:
While I wasn’t able to see Mount Fuji on my first visit due to unfavorable weather, you might be luckier. Winter months offer the best chances for clear views.
Step 5: Stepping Back in Time at Hakone Checkpoint:
After disembarking from the pirate ship, take a short 5-minute walk to the Hakone Checkpoint. This reconstructed checkpoint offers a glimpse into Japan’s historical past.
Exploring the Checkpoint:
The checkpoint consists of reconstructed buildings and a museum. While many signs are only in Japanese, you can obtain an English guide at the entrance. Additionally, an audio recording provides information about the checkpoint’s history.
Historical Significance:
The Hakone Checkpoint played a crucial role in Japan’s history as the last checkpoint on the Tokaido Highway. Learn about the checkpoint’s role in controlling the movement of people and goods during the Edo period.
A Scenic Walk:
After visiting the checkpoint, follow the Old Tokaido Road to Moto-Hakone-ko, the pier for your return pirate ship journey. This charming path offers a pleasant walk through a cedar forest.
Step 6: Enjoying a Lakeside Lunch:
Near Moto-Hakone-ko pier, you’ll find several restaurants where you can enjoy a delicious lunch. For a more casual option, consider grabbing food from the 7-Eleven across the street and having a picnic by the lake.
Step 7: Visiting Hakone Jinja Shrine:
Take a 10-minute walk from the pier to visit the Hakone Jinja Shrine. While it might not be a top priority if you’ve already visited many shrines in Japan, this one offers a picturesque setting perfect for Instagram-worthy photos.
Step 8: Hiking the Old Hakone Highway:
Embark on a rewarding hike along the original stone-paved road of the Old Hakone Highway. This trail offers a unique and challenging experience, as the stones can be quite slippery.
Choosing Your Destination:
You can hike all the way to Hakone-Yumoto, a journey that may take several hours. Alternatively, consider walking to the Amazake Teahouse and taking a bus back to the pier.
A Restful Stop:
The Amazake Teahouse is a historic rest stop along the Tokaido Road, offering a cozy atmosphere to relax and enjoy traditional Japanese refreshments like amasake (a sweet fermented rice drink) and chikara mochi (rice cakes).
Returning to Moto-Hakone:
Take a bus from the Amazake Teahouse back to Moto-Hakone, where you can catch the pirate ship to Hakone-machi-ko. From there, you can take a bus to Hakone-Yumoto Station.
Step 9: Unwinding in a Public Onsen:
Conclude your day with a visit to one of Hakone’s renowned public onsens. Tenzan Onsen is a highly recommended option, offering a variety of outdoor baths and relaxation facilities.
Getting to Tenzan:
Take bus K from the Amazake Teahouse to Oku-Yumoto Iriguchi. The last four K buses depart at 6:23, 6:58, 7:48, and 8:48 PM. The bus ride takes approximately 5 minutes.
Onsen Experience:
At Tenzan, purchase your ticket at a vending machine outside the building. If you have a Hakone Freepass, you’ll receive a discount.
Follow the onsen etiquette, including showering thoroughly before entering the bathing area. Enjoy the various pools, including the unique milky-colored pool and the ice-cold bath. After your soak, you can relax in the lounge area.
Dining at Tenzan:
Tenzan offers two excellent restaurants where you can enjoy delicious Japanese cuisine. Choose from shabu-shabu or soba noodles, among other options.
Returning to Hakone-Yumoto:
After your onsen experience, take bus K back to Hakone-Yumoto Station. The last four buses depart at 6:23, 6:58, 7:48, and 8:48 PM. Alternatively, consider using the hotel shuttle bus, which departs Tenzan at 6:55 PM.
Step 10: Departing Hakone:
You can choose to stay in Hakone for another night or return to Tokyo that evening. Take a bus or train from Hakone-Yumoto Station to Odawara. In Odawara, transfer to the Odakyu Train to Shinjuku Station or the JR Shinkansen Train to Shinjuku or Tokyo Stations.
Step 11: A Relaxing Onsen Experience
To conclude your day in Hakone, I highly recommend visiting one of its renowned public onsens. Tenzan Onsen is a popular choice, praised for its exceptional facilities and relaxing atmosphere.
Getting to Tenzan:
From Amazake Teahouse, take bus K to Oku-Yumoto Iriguchi, a journey that takes approximately 10-15 minutes. The last bus departs at 4:00 PM.
Onsen Etiquette:
While there might not be extensive English signage, observing the behavior of other bathers can guide you through the onsen experience.
- Purchase a Ticket: Use the vending machine outside the building to buy your onsen ticket. If you have a Hakone Freepass, you’ll receive a discount.
- Store Your Belongings: Enter the building, store your shoes in a locker, and present your ticket to the attendant.
- Change Rooms: Proceed to the changing room, where you’ll find lockers to store your clothes. Remember to keep your towel with you.
- Shower: Before entering the bathing area, thoroughly wash yourself in the shower room.
- Enjoy the Onsen: Enter the bathing area and explore the various pools. Tenzan offers seven outdoor pools with different temperatures and two sauna rooms. Don’t miss the unique milky-colored pool or the refreshing ice-cold bath.
Post-Onsen Relaxation:
After your soak, you can dry your hair and freshen up in the designated areas. For added relaxation, ascend the stairs to a room filled with tatami mats and beanbag chairs.
Step 12 Dining at Tenzan:
Tenzan features two excellent restaurants offering delicious Japanese cuisine. Choose from popular dishes like shabu-shabu or soba noodles. Both restaurants are located in the same building as the onsens, connected by a bridge.
Step 13: Return from Tenzan to Hakone-Yumoto Station:
After your onsen visit and dinner, take bus K back to Hakone-Yumoto Station. The last four buses depart at 6:23, 6:58, 7:48, and 8:48 PM. Alternatively, consider using the hotel shuttle bus, which departs Tenzan at 6:55 PM.
Step 14: Leaving Hakone:
You can choose to extend your stay in Hakone or return to Tokyo that evening. Take a bus or train from Hakone-Yumoto Station to Odawara. In Odawara, transfer to the Odakyu Train to Shinjuku Station or the JR Shinkansen Train to Shinjuku or Tokyo Stations.
Best Resources for your next trip to Japan
Book your flights with Skyscanner
Start your Japan adventure by scoring the best deals on flights! Utilize Skyscanner a one-stop search engine that displays flights from all major and local airlines. It ensures you see every available option, maximizing your chances of finding the cheapest price.Book accomodations throughout Japan
Japan offers a wide range of accommodation choices. Expedia & Agoda boast the largest selection and consistently offer competitive prices for hotels and hostels.Book Traditional Experiences
Enrich your Japan experience with guided tours. Check out these popular booking platforms: Klook specializes in tours across Asia, including Japan. Viator provides the most extensive selection of tours.Stay connected
Staying connected during your trip is crucial for browsing essential apps like Google maps and NAVITIME. While you have a few options to get internet, eSims are my favorite and higly recommended one.Airalo and Sakura Mobile are my favorite providers!Book your Japan Rail Pass
Japan has an extensive rail network with various passes to navigate it. Japan Rail Pass is one of the most popular passes, offering unlimited access to many national JR lines. Purchase it through Klook before your trip. But be sure it is worth based on your itinerary (more here). A cheaper alternative are Regional Passes: Explore regional options like the Hakone Freepass for specific areas.
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